Given that Ireland sports such a bristling pub culture, and given that the ambience of a pub contributes so much to the drinking experience, the wonder of Irish pub design is that it has been so wrong for so long. Having ripped out Victorian and Edwardian interiors and replaced them with Formica and vinyl in the 1960s and 1970s, many publicans then scrapped the plastic in favour of mock-Victorian gin palaces, while others went back to the banquettes, but in a knowing, retro way. What failed to emerge was a new style. Until now, that is, because finally there are glimmers of style that give cause for optimism.

